If the thought of ploughing through crowds of tourists in the summer heat isn’t your idea of a relaxing weekend break, it doesn’t mean Italian cities are off the menu completely. Bologna, perched between Florence, Venice and Lake Como, has the beauty of other Italian cities but without the high prices and tour groups that plague the rest of the country. It has Instagram-able architecture aplenty and as the home of Bolognese sauce, boasts some of the best food and wine in the country. With flights from just £50 return, what are you waiting for?
Friday, 12pm
After an early morning flight from London Stansted, take a taxi from the airport to the centre (€20) and arrive in time for lunch. Head to Trattoria Belle Arti, (via delle Belle Arti 14) for authentic pizza and pasta. Both the house red and white are delicious – order the parma ham and parmiggiano antipasti to start, followed by the linguine with lobster. You won’t be disappointed.
3pm
After lunch, take a stroll round the city to get your bearings. Head down Via Independenza, the main shopping street, before arriving at Piazza Maggiore, the city’s main square. Wander through Bologna’s food market streets and soak up the atmosphere. 
6pm
Grab one of the outside sofas at Zanarini, behind the Basilica San Pietro, for aperitivo – a Bolognese tradition where a free food buffet is with early evening drinks. Try a glass of pignoletto, which is similar to prosecco and the wine of the area.
9pm
If almost inedibly large pizza is your thing, try Spacca Napoli on Via San Vitale. Run by a Neapolitan family, the pizzas are quick, authentic and delicious – for the sake of your digestion however, don’t try and eat it all at once. (They will happily wrap up the leftovers.)
Saturday, 10am
Head for a leisurely breakfast Italian style at Lobbs bistro (Via Altabella), just off the main square. After, catch the noddy train from Piazza Maggiore up to Basilican San Luca, the beautiful orange church perched on a hill overlooking Bologna. On a clear day, the views of the countryside go on for miles.
1pm
Once safely back in the heat of the city walls, abate your hunger with a taglieri board from La Proscuitteria (Via Oberdan). The menu look may look confusing, but the staff speak great English and you won’t go wrong ordering a large taglieri board between two. Expect more types of ham, cheese and bruschetta than you could possibly eat – pair it with the house white wine, whose unlabelled bottle is cheap and surprisingly delicious.
3pm
After lunch, its time to tackle Bologna’s most famous landmark: the Due Torri. A word of warning for those with a fear of heights – the stairs lack any real safety barriers, and it often feels claustrophobic at the weekends when tourists all attempt the climb. The views from the top, however, are spectacular. (€3)
6pm
The food market at the end of Ugo Bassi is a buzzing area, even more so at aperitivo time (Mercato Delle Erbe, Ugo Bassi). Wander through it and stop at any of the wine and food bars marking the edges, or walk straight through and sit outside at Senza Nome; this bar is run by Bologna’s deaf community, so try your hand at sign language or speak clearly when ordering. Try an Aperol Spritz here, and don’t forget to help yourself to the aperitivo buffet – it has more vegetables and less carbs than other bars’ offerings, in case your belt is already starting to feel a little tight…
9pm
Perhaps not traditional Bolognese cuisine but at the end of Via Alessandrini sits Aroma di Roma, one of the most renowned restaurants in Bologna. Specialising in – you guessed it – Roman food, this family run restaurant can be found in 2016’s Michelin Guide. Although it seems to open and close on the owner’s whim, heading for around 9pm on the weekends it is more than likely to be open – but to be on the safe side, its best to book ahead.
Sunday, 10am
Make the most of your last morning and head to MAMBo (Via Don Giovanni Minzoni), Bologna’s huge modern art museum situated on the edge of the Parco del Cavaticcio. Have an espresso and croissant at its café – which also serves excellent cocktails and aperitivo at night. Open from 10am to 7pm, MAMBo contains modern and experimental art and photography as well as a large collection of pieces by Morandi, a Bolognese native.
12pm
Time to head back to the airport, perhaps stopping by Pizza Artiste (Via Marsala 35) for one slice of pizza to keep you going.